[Russ]

Yes Russ - levers as well!

cheers Paul.....just one more question for you.....when the model 9 left the factory with the original ML CK1 magneto would it have been slack or tight wire on the advance / retard....I've been told it was slack wire (push the lever forward to advance).....or does it really matter

[phutton]

Yes Russ - levers as well!

[wessex_man]

Yes had one of the old 'tecnics' kit's. Making sure that you keep every thing clean, and not contaminating solutions was important. Had a fish tank heater to keep temperature. Really need a seperate shed and seperate vats. Difficult to get dull nickle done these days by comercial guys. It has a much softer golden tone.  Used to get it done by a nice man who had a small set up in a shed in his back garden. Over thirty years ago my Uncle had a NSU two speed clutch done and you wouldn't know it had been in really pitted poor condition it was like new after he filled the pits with copper and rubbed back! Sadly most platers are only set up for bright nickel plate these days.

[Russ]

Don't forget to specify DULL nickel. No Sunbeams used bright nickel. Talk it over with your plater, and make sure he understands you are asking for a vintage finish.
I believe you can buy dull nickel plating kits, but I expect Wessexman can advise on that!
P.

absolutely......dull for me.....I'll be making my own nickel solution so  it will be naturally dull if you wanted bright Nickel you would have to add a brighter additive to the solution......Frost do ready made solutions in 3 types of brightness dull medium and bright......the steel inverted grips will have to be copper plated first before Nickel plating......should the inverted levers be dull nickel as well Paul

[phutton]

Don't forget to specify DULL nickel. No Sunbeams used bright nickel. Talk it over with your plater, and make sure he understands you are asking for a vintage finish.
I believe you can buy dull nickel plating kits, but I expect Wessexman can advise on that!
P.

[oggers]

I'd agree 400 seems excessive. Those pipes look OK to me regardless.....Mine are a copper finish - not sure if the nickel plating has come off or they have been replaced. I know they should be nickel, but I quite like the copper so that's how they will remain. I too have tried machine polishing rather than plating with some good results on alloys. Not as shiny as chrome for sure, but then for fuel pipes how shiny do you want?

[wessex_man]

Got to admit £400 seems excessive for a few bits, but I am sure you know it's not just about the plating process, which I wish you success. I've seen some good results. The items need to be stripped to bare metal, surface pits removed and polished to a mirror finish. (If you are copper plating it can be used to fill but needs to be rubbed back). Found over the years if you do the polishing yourself the cost of plating falls dramatically. I've just re-bought mops and polishing compounds recently just in excess of £100 and spent inexcess of a week time wise polishing the latest rebuild. Not sure how the cost of electricity has affected the price plating wise yet but will soon to find out.

[Russ]

will do it'll be a while yet as there's other things to do first before all the fancy bits get done anyway here's a picture of the oil lines I've cobbled up that need plating and a couple of other bits including bar end levers (not shown) the plater wanted £400 to nickel these bits excluding the Kickstarter admittedly there was a bit of welding on the seat post to be done I thought that was alot of money but on reflection perhaps it wasn't it was 6 to 8 weeks waiting time that I liked least of all....anyway for now though I've dropped onto my Norton just need to assemble the head and set the Valve timing and ignition timing and that should be it back on the road....in between sorting cables for the Sunbeam no mean feat I can tell you....that's my next post

[Peter 100]

Russ
Please post some pictures of the finished plated parts I would like to see what can be done doing them yourself.
I have seen the kits on line but never seen anything done.
Cheers
Peter

[Russ]

£400....6 TO 8 Weeks....sheesh maybe I'm getting tight in my old age to be honest it's not the really the money it's the time.....so I'm going to do it myself they're only small parts the stuff I got to do probably amounts to 2 overriders worth LOL....anyway I'm even going to make the nickel and copper solutions myself....I reckon the whole caboodle including acid etch and degreasers will come to about £110 I've already got a variable power supply.....like I said they're only small parts and half are copper / brass only the levers will need copper plating first and my bikes a rider (or will be) not a polisher and there'll be a ton of solution left over for future bits and bobs.......sheesh £400 6 to 8 weeks anyone would have thought I wanted a frame doing.....Ill keep y'all posted

[Peter 100]

Russ
I haven't had any chroming done on the bike but a couple years back I had one bumper plus four overiders and four coach bolts chromed for my Austin car it took 2/3 months and £600 cash in hand would have been plus vat if I needed a receipt.
So I reckon for yours about £200/300 and a couple of months. 😜
Peter

[Russ]

ok so went off to take some small parts to be Nickel plated or so I thought so the parts were....3 x 5/16" oil pipe lines 2 x Inverted levers  and a seat post....the seat post also needed an inch of tube welding to the seat bar......how much would you think I was told it would be and how long did you think it might take......
suffice to say I came home with it all and have decided to do it myself