[phutton]

Don't forget the various mesh strainers (I would hesitate to call them filters!) in the oil tank and sump. Also worth checking the clutch adjustment, including the clutch stops (helps selection of first gear from rest) and push-rod clearance. Check the oil level in the primary chaincase and its consistency. You need just enough to touch the bottom run of the chain, and ATF is probably the best oil to use.
P.

[Daniel]

Actually I would do an ultrasonic cleaning of the carburetor too.

[StanStan]

Thanks Dani. Pretty much the way I'll be going. Step by step. Oil, valves and mag timing first. See if it starts...

[Daniel]

Hi Mark

I was in a similar situation 2 years ago. Could take over a 1932 Model 9 which was restored in the mid 90's and did not made any kilometer afterwards. At least I had an invoice of an engine overhaul made that time. What I did:

- engine oil system flushed and refilled
- checked / adjusted valves
- gearbox grease refilled
- Carburetor overhauled
- Petroleum tap overhauled
- Speedometer and time watch repaired
- tyres changed
- Magneto overhauled
- Dynamo overhauled and modified to electronic rectifier
- Relined brake shoes
- Lubricated fork and every other moveable part
- Plus I had to repair some things not done properly in the past

My M9 is back on the road since last April. So far I had no issues and it's running well.

Regards
Dani

[StanStan]

Hi All

I'm new to the club, Sunbeams and anything older than 1960. I was lucky enough to be the winning bidder of the 1935 Model 9 at Mathewson's November auction. Someone has done a high quality restoration at some point. On the outside at least. It came with no documentation of any work done, or parts purchased, so what was done, when, and who by remains a mystery. It's hard to believe anybody would do such a good job externally, and not pay the same attention to the mechanics, but you never know. I have heard of show ponies ( not Sunbeams....) that turned out to be mechanical disasters. There's a good layer of black sludge in the bottom of the oil tank, so that's getting thoroughly cleaned out before even turning it over. Plus mag timing and valve clearances before I try to start it. MOT certs suggest very little use in the past 20 years. I'd rather not tear into the motor and gearbox unless absolutely necessary, so will go step by step

I've done my basic research and am familiar with the basics. Any recommissioning hints and tips gratefully received, and any knowledge of the history of FD9442 much appreciated. Hope to be out on the road to some runs and events in 2024 !

Mark "Stan" Stanley