[iansoady]

Having delved a little further, I think I can see that the plain 1/2" hole and paired locknuts, although not as elegant as a threaded hole in the link, will work OK as at the other end the link is trapped between a thin adjusting nut and an external locknut. So this should ensure that the links move with the spindles and that the spindles therefore rotate correctly in their housings as designed. Of course if anything slackens off in use this may cause problems!

[iansoady]

Those are excellent John. Although my forks are slightly different I get the gist.

On examining what I've got, I think the offside links should have threaded holed so that the spindle can be tightened from the other side and locked against the link with a lock nut. This corresponds to what I read in the handbook.

In fact they have plain holes with a nut and locknut so this would allow the link to rotate on the pin rather than the pin rotating in the head clip and steering column. My links just seem to have been made from flat bar rather than shaped like yours (which I assume are forgings) so I think replacements with the correct threaded holes should be easy enough to make.

Girders look quite intimidating at first but now I feel I have grasped the principle seem fairly straightforward in operation.

[singleminded]

If you want the full resolution pics let me know..john

[singleminded]

And the rest

[singleminded]

AHHH There should have been 8 photos..
I see what I did wrong..

[singleminded]

I have dogleg forks on my 32 9A. They have the damper on the top lind.
If these photos load they MAY help. John

[iansoady]

This is my first girder forked machine so I'm on something of a steep learning curve. Furthermore, I'm not convinced that the parts that I have fitted to my Model 10 are either correct or fitted in the correct order.

Does anyone have a diagram showing either another model and which bits (spacers, thin nuts etc) go where or even better one for the Model 10? I understand they're Webb type, with a central spring but differ from some other models in that the friction damper is on the top rather than the bottom link - which actually seems like a better plan as it's easier to reach when on the move.

Onwards and upwards (probably rather bouncily.....)