[paul.w]

Thanks for that.  It has  1" bars, looking at the photo of the club one I'm not sure I can use it - at least not directly.  On mine the top half of the clamp is actually the advance/retard lever.  To use the shop one I'd have to mount it underneath and then it'd be operating in the wrong direction - so if I use a shop one I'll also have to replace the adv/ret lever as well.  Hm!
A bit of thought required I think!!

[phutton]

Hi Paul,

I'm sure Graham is right - it's the wrong lever. I'm pretty sure it should be a Bowden lever. This sits on top of the handlebar - you can see one on our Shop: https://marston-sunbeam.org/sunbeam_shop17/new-stock/547-clutch-lever.html . What you have is a very nice Amal lever used from 1932 on. Does your machine have 7/8" or 1" bars?

P.

[shorrog]

Hi Paul
I have just had a look at my 1930 model 9 and the distance from the middle of the handlebar to the tip of the clutch lever is approx 5".  Yours does look big so maybe not the correct one?
Graham

[paul.w]

]I've just seen the light, sold my BSA Sloper and bought a Model 9 - I'm starting on a whole new learning curve! I'm sure there will be many posts requesting advice, but I thought I'd start with a simple one;

It rides well (there is a carb/mixture issue, that will be a subsequent question) but I've started by addressing the clutch.  The clutch itself is fine.  It does all the things a clutch should do, and none of the things it shouldn't, but it operates at the extreme reach of my fingers which means smooth operation is difficult.  The problem appears to be the shape of the lever itself, it is long and curves away from the h/bar grip.  The brake lever is inverted, so is the valve lifter lever (and the same shape as the brake), but the clutch lever is a straight pull and much longer.  My question is - is this an issue others have had, is it correct and if it is, is it possible to alter the operating angle without resorting to violence? If its worked there should be a photo below...