[VicYouel]

Yep screws are all 3/16 whitworth with filister heads...... nice to here that all is ok now. Safe riding

Vic

[study]

Bike is all back together and running again - It had been fitted with a couple of incorrect screws 26 tpi instead of  24 tpi - Now heli-coiled where necessary and correct threaded screws used.  Thanks for the helpful advice. Always nice to know what to expect when taking things apart 

[singleminded]

It's a taper. If you don't have a small puller refit the nut,or better still use a spare nut, so that it is about half way on(don't have the end of the camshaft thread showing) and wedge the sprocket from behind with a screw driver and sharply( not a navy's thump) tap the nut. the sprocket should then just pop off, soft faced hammer is best
When refitting the swash plate(the washer with a slot and 2 ears) hold it in place with some grease and align the pump to the plate,it's a bit fiddly at times but you should be ok..john

[study]

Thanks Vic  I have taken off the nut  that drives the oil pump. The sprocket is tight on the shaft - is it a keyway or taper eg it does not seem keen to move easily. just wondering what to expect if I put a puller on it.

[VicYouel]

The valve lifter can be left in the cover but the drive sprocket will have to be disconnected and then be retimed after assembly.

Our club can supply the extractor tool....call Les Hobbs. An essential tool kit item.

Vic

[study]

A couple more questions about removing the timing cover.
Can the valve lifter be left on the cover or does it need removing before the cover is removed. Also same question about the magneto drive sprocket.  I have the timing cover loose but don't want to pull out the timing gears by mistake. Also is there anywhere I could borrow or buy a magneto gear puller - Currently without a lathe. Looks to be 5/8 * 18 tpi

[iansoady]

I agree about Wellseal - super stuff. Although I have also recently used Loctite 5922 (known by some I believe as black s**t) which is sticky black stuff and has nearly cured the weep from the bottom of my Model 10 timing cover in conjunction with a home-made thin card gasket.

[VicYouel]

WEllseal is the stuff to use   see http://www.wellseal.co.uk/  avoid silicon stuff as the little beads can b;lock oil ways.

Loads of screws holding it  so am surprised like john too. When disassembling it becareful not to extract the cams...... they are easy to set up but sometimes the little dots are obscured by the timing pinion nut.

Cheers

Vic

[study]

Thanks for the info about gaskets. I can't say for sure that the case was tight, although I had checked everything over and they were not loose before first riding the bike.  I have only owned the bike for a few hundred miles and had taken it for it longest ride yet approx. 30 miles. I will check everything when I remove the cover and may well post again depending what I come across. This is the oldest bike, by twenty years, that I have owned and really enjoy riding it 

[singleminded]

There is only 1 gasket on a 1932 M9 and that is between the barrel and the crankcase.
The cover on my bike has never come loose and if i remember correctly there should be 2 locating pins to keep it aligned.
Assuming that none of the screws are stripped, I can't see why they came loose. Were they done up nice and tight to start with?
While the cover is off check the timing side bearing because if it is worn it may be the cause of the cover coming loose..John

[study]

I have a 1932 model 9 and the timing case has come loose whilst riding, depositing the oil all over the road. I had luckily pulled over and noticed before running out of oil and doing any damage to the engine.  Would there originally of been a thin gasket ?  Also is this a problem that other people have suffered - all the timing case screws coming undone. Thanks for any advice given