[Exstress]

Thanks for the replies Gents,

I have definitely got free play at the bridge. I will do some more investigating and follow your suggestions. 

Just a thought..... Is it possible that the plates that were re-lined recently worked ok with a badly fitting piston, but now with the extra compression and a little thinner through wear, are possibly not wide enough? They are not as wide as cork plates.  Could the rod be too long now?

Thanks, John

[phutton]

Hi John,

One or two things come to mind. Firstly, are the plain plates in the right way round (tangs outwards)? After adjusting the clutch at the bridge end, have you got a little free movement of the lever under the bridge, i.e. free play in the thrust rod?

Can you put your full weight on the k/s, with the bridge removed, without the clutch slipping? If you can't then the fault lies in the clutch assembly itself. If you can, you need to re-assemble the bridge, and have another go at the adjustment.

If all the parts are correct (!), there is little to go wrong with the 6-spring clutch, so it really is a matter of checking the assembly and the adjustment.

P.

[singleminded]

If tightening the nuts does not stop it slipping there may be more than one answer..The obvious one is there is a problem with the plates, the other could be that the spring cups are starting to bottom out on the centre nut (which could also be the plates getting thin)..You have some investigating to do I'm afraid.  John

[Exstress]

Hello, I have a strange coincidence!  I have changed the piston and rings in my 1935 Model 8 recently.  I have also adjusted the clutch exactly as per the book but cannot get it to stop slipping. The only change is that the nuts in the studs are now tighter than before as I have spent a lot of time getting the pressure plate to lift evenly.

The plates have been relined but that was last year.  Am I wrong in thinking the pressure plate being tighter could not affect the clutch to make it slip?

Any advice will be appreciated.  Thanks. John