[klaudius]

The original levers were clamped in 1931-32 and fixed with a small screw. The original rubber 7/8 has a hole for the screw to reach without removing it. Unfortunately I haven't seen any good replicas for 7/8. The throttle grip was Amal's long version. Is only reduced to 7/8 with the corresponding tube. The levers for ignition and air differ in design (screw on top) 1931-1932. In 1932 the screws were countersunk. Greetings Klaudius

[TrevorD47]

Thanks for the info, I have a new handlebar from the club shop, i have 2 new inverted levers and a Bowden clutch lever. I would like to use an Amal straight twistgrip but the only source i can find for those is a guy in Slovakia at £198!!! and they are for 1" bars.

Dumb question alert, how are the reverse levers clamped / fixed in the bars?

Trevor

[phutton]

The 1931 M9 used reverse levers for front brake and valve-lifter, with a Bowden lever for the clutch. You can see these on the Club Shop. The 1931 catalogue shows a combined lever throttle and air control, but most people used a conventional twist grip with separate air. The mag lever is the conventional type.

You are quite right, you will have to drill the Club-supplied 'bars for the cables if you have reverse levers.

The 1931 models could be supplied Amal Clean handlebars, which ran the cables through the bars, but they are extremely rare. Might be worth Googling them if you want to see what they are like.

P.

[TrevorD47]

Thanks Vic, I guess it's just a case of drilling cable holes in the club 7/8th ones?

Does anyone have a close up picture of what a 31 M9 handlebar arrangement should really look like?

Mines full of cheap repro bits.......

[VicYouel]

We do stock 7/8in diameter handlebars in the shop and the Scott owners club supply nice 1 inch diameter handlebars. We are temporarily out of inverted levers but these are available from Mark Baker.
Vic

[phutton]

Try the Club Shop!

[TrevorD47]

Thanks for your answers, i've pulled the clutch and everything was covered in a black treacle like goo, a consequence of the breather going into the chaincase i suspect! All cleaned up now and the clutch no longer dragging, I think I'll reroute the breather pipe, it doesn't have an enclosed chain so i think i'll just point it downwards.

I would really like to revert it back to inverted handlebar levers, i know i can get inverted levers but can i get the handlebars?

Trevor
 

[singleminded]

No ,that's a modification someone has done..I have a '32 9A and a '29 90 with a 1932 90 engine in it. there is no fitting to take a breather into the chaincase as standard..not sure I would want what would be waste oil going into the clutch assy.

[klaudius]

Hello
Motor ventilation runs from the motor via a check valve directly into the chain case of the drive chain. I have never seen in primary box. Don't think your gearbox is 32. Could it be that your brake block of the cable is installed twisted? Greetings Claudius

[TrevorD47]

It seems I have a 31 frame but a 32 M90 engine, gearbox etc.
There is a oil tank breather pipe that lubs to the chain but the engine breather goes directly into the primary chaincase, I assume that's as it should be?

I like the idea of using transmission fluid in the primary chaincase but i guess the thinner the oil then the faster it piddles out!

I will take a look at the weekend

[phutton]

It's well worth checking the oil in the primary chaincase. It should be no thicker than SAE20 (many people use automatic transmission fluid) and the level should be such that the bottom run of the primary chain just touches the oil.

It may also be worth giving the plats a scrub with a solvent. Petrol works best, but is not nice to use. I quite like white spirit for this job.

P.

[singleminded]

I assume you mean the rear chain guard that the breather goes into, at least that's where they were put on most 1931/32 bikes.
If it is into the rear chain guard then oil won't get into the clutch inside the primary chaincase..John

[TrevorD47]

Hi,
      I still haven't removed the rocker box cover so i've no idea what's in there!
I have fitted the 3 position valve now and that has reduced the oil pressure to about 40psi in the number 2 position.

I need to look at the clutch next as that is dragging badly, so i suspect there may be too much oil in the chaincase.

I see the crankcase breather goes into the chaincase, do you think oil gets into the chaincase by that route?

[singleminded]

I was hesitant about frightening you with that thought about the spring and ball in the elbow..All my pressure problems were due to no ball and spring in the elbow..No one is supplying the top spring, it was a matter of trial and error till i got it right..I ended up using a slightly cut down Vincent Cush drive inner spring till i got a dribble of oil from the jet and the tell tale open about 3/16". The pressure ended up at 65psi cold and about 45 hot.

[TrevorD47]

I haven't looked at the rocker box yet Kluadius, that's the next job.........

[klaudius]

Hello
I suspect your oil pressure problem is not in the oil tap. Much more it is in the valve box. Have you checked both felting systems? When they are closed, the Eureka does what it has to do, namely to max. pressure to go. Have you checked the sterile valve distributor between the engine and the oil pressure gauge? Bullet? Feather?
The 1932 engine is a fine example of English engineering. First the world could watch and teach. Greetings to England and please forgive me for my English. Klaudius.

[TrevorD47]

Thanks, i'll leave the mag to casing gap alone then.

I have since glued the oil pressure gauge needle back on and it shows pressure up to 90psi with some revs (thats probably why it fell off) so i think i will invest in the correct 3 way tap.

[phutton]

On my 1927 engine, the gap is about 1" between the front face of the mag, and the back face of the cover. I suspect this is what you have also. The felt closest to the mag looks to be sitting on the spigot of the mag which will make the gap look bigger.

It may be that this has been done because excess oil has been getting into the timing chest, perhaps as the result of having the on/off tap instead of the correct three-position tap. These engines do tend to wet-sump, so some people actually solder up the smallest hole in the three-way tap and use that to cut off the oil supply when the machine is not in use. Just don't forget to put the tap onto position 2!

[TrevorD47]

Hi all, I have a 31 frame / 32 engine model 9 that's new to me, a couple of questions.

There is a large gap between the mag and the mag chain case that is filled by a couple of thick felt discs, is something missing /wrong?

It has an oil tap fitted and I suspect that there is no restrictor as before the needle fell off the repro pressure gauge it was reading about 55psi, i have read the previous posts on oil pressure but it seems inconclusive. is it worth splashing out on a three way tap with the restrictor in it?

Regards
Trevor