[singleminded]

https://cyclesautomoto.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/1927-amac-catalogue.pdf
Some similar non needle pictures and parts lists at the end of this manual.

[singleminded]

I've had no trouble with the short 18mm plug..you could always use a 14mm with an adapter.
I'll keep an eye out for the needle less type and I'll ask a friend who i think might use one.

[Russ]

cheers John...that manuals for an M type with throttle needle mines a PJY no throttle needle anyway not sure what the issue is.....I'm sure has to be with the needle and float levels.....I'll persevere....I've also stumbled upon the fact that my vintage spark plug is only 1/2" long reach but the actual plug hole is 3/4" or there abouts so that's likely the issue with difficult starting....I know 18mm long reach plugs are like chickens teeth Green Spark plug Co had a batch of KLG ML50's made but they've sold out and they're not getting anymore made either sadly....I'll have to scour the jumbles etc....cheers

Russ

[singleminded]

https://rickparkington.co.uk/amac-carb-query/
Found this on Rick Partingtons site.
I also found an Amac manual on Flickr, if you Google amac manual and search Images you should find it.

[Russ]

Petrol still floods out of the small air intake hole below the mixture screw....it has to be an issue with the float chamber the float needle is spot on 76mm the copper float looks good....I'm just wondering if the tickler is the right length does the needle need to sit inside the tickler tube and use it as a guide? I get the feeling the needle misaligns with the short tickler tube and gets stuck inside the float cap and stops the needle shutting off the fuel...of course I might be talking total tosh anyone got any thoughts by the way The tickler on my carb is flush with the inside of the float cap see if you can make out what I'm trying to convey from my rubbish sketch I did on my phone LOL 😆 cheers 👍

[Russ]

If you think that the float may be a bit high try rotating the carb on the stub  anti clockwise if the chamber is on the left of the carb, or clockwise if on the right. If your float chamber is a bottom feed type it may be worth taking the lid of to make sure the float is actually floating and not getting stuck. I'm not really knowledgeable on AMAC carbs but this is general testing.
John

That's a good idea John I'll give that a go I've had the whole carb apart it all looks to be there apart from a copper washer that goes under the jet body according to the 1927 Amac parts list the float and needle all look good I'm
sure the needles the correct length and not being stopped by the tickler I'll need to check that the needle clip notch is in the right place there is only one notch ....I'll get it sorted some how...I have the Amal 76/AE carb the bike came with which I can use to get bike running so at least I can make sure the oil system and the ignition system is working...

[singleminded]

If you think that the float may be a bit high try rotating the carb on the stub  anti clockwise if the chamber is on the left of the carb, or clockwise if on the right. If your float chamber is a bottom feed type it may be worth taking the lid of to make sure the float is actually floating and not getting stuck. I'm not really knowledgeable on AMAC carbs but this is general testing.
John

[Russ]

Nope not sorted.....it leaks like a sieve.....it seems to be leaking from the small hole at the back of the carb adjacent the mixture adjuster screw is......I'm wondering if it's something to do with the float bowl  / needle or maybe there something missing......any thoughts  / ideas welcome

[Russ]

sorted now I made my own copper washer about a third the width of the one in the photo......

[Russ]

quick question chaps.....who is running an AMAC 15 PJY......do you have the copper washer installed between the jet body and the carb body? as listed in the AMAC parts list pt no 3039 see attached photo....note the small hole in the recess....the copper washer will slightly cover this is this a problem.....JTC says to leave it out which is what I think I'm going to do....I just wonder why AMAC would list a copper washer if it wasn't needed....I'm wondering if it's more like a shim to raise the jet body  / jet away from the sprayer nozzle or whether it's actually just a seal or perhaps it does both jobs......your thoughts would be appreciated......cheers