[Thomas]

My impression is that mint condition often means not running on the road, Barney. And it mostly means 'not original'. When you see a nice high glossy painted frame you can be sure that it is not original. You can be sure, though, about the Sunbeam being a reliable machine because of its quality. I proofed that by a trip crossing the Alps twice with my wife on the pillion seat and luggage. And we didn't use the tunnels... 
Cheers, Thomas

[barney.1966]

Great Thanks Thomas, I see mine is 1 year older than yours, mine is nowhere near mint but hopefully a tidy runner, as soon as I can get hold of parts and back together I will get a picture, nice to have a sensible conversation with similar minded people
Thanks barney

[Thomas]

OK, I understand. Actually I even do not use a long bar for aligning the wheels anymore. I simply do that by eye by looking along the rear wheel tyre edge towards the front wheel edge. As soon as they align to each other everything is fine. BTW: I am not bored at all but appreciate the exchange here. I do not like the dubious Facebook environment.
Cheers, Thomas

[barney.1966]

Hi Thomas,

Thanks for taking the time to reply
If I start from the beginning this is a bit long winded but you will get an idea of what I'm doing.
My Dad purchased this bike in 2009 off a friend who had owned it since 1993 I did have a ride on this in the early 90's but was not impressed with the handling so my Dad purchased it knowing this.
My Dad has given me this so decided it's time to get it on the road again, we did know there was some wear in the forks so I have took those off ready to get new bushes and spindles, plus also needs head bearings.
While these are off and looking for the relevant parts I decided to check wheel alignment with a straight bar through the headstock and 2 aluminium bars with spacers either side of the wheel rim and this is where I have found to centre this the wheel is tyre is rubbing on the mudguard, looking again Today I have found where the tyres have sat they are bulged so I now think the sensible thing is 1 at a time get head bearings forks done when I can get parts and check from there with new tyres and check tyre sizes first.

I do hope I haven't bored you to much, any help with sourcing parts would be very grateful

Thanks again
barney

[Thomas]

Hi Barney,

the primary chain case is fixed to the crankcase, indeed. It can't be adjusted. So, leave it as it is. If I understand you right (I am not sure) you should start with completely slaclening the adjustment for the rear wheel. Then you use a long and straight tool to align the rear to the front wheel (e.g., a timber or a long wooden slat). When this is done you can tighten the adjuster step by step until the rear chain has its correct tension. Repeatedly control the alignment. If the primary chain needs to be tightened you need to start with that and only then you follow the above procedure. By the way, I recommend to use available manuals like the 'Sunbeam Motorcycles Instruction book' and the 'Book of the Sunbeams'.

Cheers, Thomas

[barney.1966]

I have a Model 9 not been on the road for quite a few years and needing some work forks worn, head bearings badly pitted, and rear wheel out of alignment, thesis the part I am looking at now, the 2 adjusters are unequal but I have noticed if I spin the rear wheel it is already catching the front edge of rear mudguard I can't adjust it over anymore as it will catch it harder and the mudguard is touching the primary chaincase.
I am assuming the primary chaincase is fixed to the crankcase so is there any adjustment for this shims maybe ? or are the engine cases shimmed in the frame ? I would appreciate any advice please, I know it's hard without seeing it, it's awkward to explain it plus I started this without giving myself enoughroom really as I thought it was just worn head bearings and fork bushes and spindles,
Thanks for looking
barney