[phutton]

I forgot to mention that you should not use an EP oil in the gearbox, as when it leaks through into the primary c/c, it will help the clutch to slip! Morris 40 is fine - just enough to touch the bottom run of the chain.

P.

[SteveBullock]

No  silicon then!  Thanks Paul. The drive chain should be ok bathed in Morris 40 as well, do you think?
S.

[phutton]

Whatever you do, don't put a silcon-based oil in your primary chaincase - your clutch will slip forever. I use a straight 40 in my M5, and the same oil in the primary c/c. I use a semi-fluid grease in my g/box, & top it up with oil occasionally via the three-in-one tap.

P.

[SteveBullock]

Thanks Vic.
I use Morris 40 in the other old 'uns.
It's off with the wheels and oil tank then!
As to the brakes, one wag at the show said if you apply the front brake the machine goes faster!
Steve.

[VicYouel]

I think a straight 40 from Morris is the best oil for the engine...... you could also remove the sump wire mesh filter (if fitted) when draining  the oil and give it a good clean. If full of sludge then take the oil tank off and clean that out as well and remove all the oil pipes as  they can sludge up too.

Worth checking  the wheel bearings...... grease is fundamentally a mixture of clay and oil and goes solid over the years. The brakes are never very good but it gives you a chance to check them.

The gear box uses grease but worth putting a little 140 oil in ....it can only leak out!

Good luck

Vic

[SteveBullock]

Thanks Graham.
That's a good start.  What do you (and anyone else  who cares to chip in) think about which oils to use? I  run the rest of the 'stable' - except the Big Port-  on a monograde 40 but I do wonder if a multigrade might be better.  And as to the chain cases, the 1915 manual recommends a thin cycle oil; what would we use today?  I use a really gloopy semi synthetic oil on my pushbike these days but thats on an open chain.  Would the modern silicon based lubricants be more efficient?  Three in One is the cycle oil I remember and is probably still around.  Is that the stuff to use?

Regards, Steve.

[shorrog]

Hi Steve
I guess from your mail that you have not yet started the bike.  I had my model 9 laid up for about 8 years and on trying to start got absolutely no where. However on checking the plug it was pretty obvious that it was dry even after a fair bit of kicking. I therefore stripped the carb down and discovered that the jets were well blocked with petrol residue.
So I would suggest that you strip the carb and give it a thorough clean other than that it would be sensible to change the oil.
If you are at all unsure about the cables I would change them, they are all saftey elements and you don't want a failure on something that costs a few pounds.

Graham

[SteveBullock]

Right chaps: Your advice needed:
Those who were at Stafford might be aware that I acquired the 1915 3.5hp in the Bonhams sale.  But what to do with it?  It is in what you might call good oily rag condition and was last used on the road in 1988. The engine turns over freely and there is a good spark. The tyres appear good despite their age - no cracking etc. I don't intend to go for a concours restoration as I think I like the look of the machine as it is, but what do you think I should do to 'recommission' it as the auction catalogue puts it?  A change of oil is advisable presumably - both engine and chain cases - and a good going over with the grease gun.  What oils do other owners recommend? And what about the cables? These are worn but intact: should I replace them?  So many questions!
All advice gratefully received.
Regards
Steve.