[phutton]

Because it is, in effect, a crash box, the key to smooth changes is synchronizing road speed and engine speed for the gear you are going into. If you pull in the clutch and let the revs die right down, you will never achieve a crunch-free down-change. If you have a twist grip, make sure it does not shut off when you release it to change gear. Let the revs rise and "feel" the lower gear in when the engine speed is correct. The same applies with a lever throttle, of course. It will take a bit of practice - I've been doing it for 25 years and I still get it wrong most of the time!

Paul

[iansoady]

I must confess as a recent (not as yet on the road) Sunbeam owner and never having ridden a bike with this form of gearbox I have some trepidation myself in this area, especially as some reports of the Sunbeam gearbox seem to suggest that it is worse than other marques in this respect.

I suppose a sliding pinion box can never give such a good change as a sliding dog box as used in later machines as the latter can be designed with backlash that allows the dogs to mesh more easily.

I'm interested by Wessex Man's suggestion re the clutch stops as I was under the impression that these came into play mainly for stopping the clutch plate from rotating when engaging bottom gear from neutral.

[wessex_man]

Hi Frank I suspect that your clutch stops are not correctly adjusted. Or alternatively is it possible you are traveling too fast when attempting to change down?

[Frank Nield]

On my 1926 Model 6 Longstroke I am experiencing difficulty changing from 3rd into 2nd gear. Unless I slow down to almost walking pace, the change can only be achieved with difficulty and horrible grinding.......very embarrassing. All other uses of clutch and gearbox seem OK. As I'm not an engineer, I fear that examining the gearbox innards will be beyond my  competence and experience.
Any suggestions as to the steps I should take?