[Steve_M90]

I'm pleased to report the clutch has been rebuild and the bike recommissioned:

- Cork discs replaced by Mike Chenery (£14/plate)
- Replacement discs soaked in automatic transmission fluid for 24hr
- Rebuild and set up as per the handbook
- Rubber replaced in the clutch stops (material from Les Hobbs) and stops set up as per method from Paul Hutton (posted below)
- Not surprisingly, a noticeable difference from the worn clutch behaviour
- The clutch drags ever so slightly at the moment but it can be held on the brakes

Thanks for all the help posted on the Forum.

[singleminded]

http://www.pantherownersclub.com/PantherPage/recork.html

Maybe not exactly like ours but some good ideas.
I sanded my corks to thickness with this method..John

[markprizeman]

This French site is a good source of clutch corks at 15mm by 5mm they fit my model 5's half inch holes.

http://www.macadam2roues.com/fr/liege-d-embrayage/228-125-terrot.html

Liege = cork

Embrayage = clutch

Trick is to boil them in linseed oil first and then linish after fitting them according to Les at Russell Motors

[phutton]

Your best bet when setting the clutch cable is to follow the instructions in the handbook - this works pretty well.

Regarding the clutch stops, we have some of the friction material in the Spares stock - give Les Hobbs or call or drop him an e-mail. Do check the size of the hole in the threaded housing - there can be variation depending on model.

A spot of Araldite will secure the friction material in the stud, and you set them up as follows:

Pull in the clutch lever as far as it will go, then screw in the stops until they just touch the outer clutch plate (you can check this with a feeler gauge if the thread is a bit tight). Release the clutch lever and screw the stops in about 1/4 turn. You can check the setting by pulling in the clutch fully and, with the spark plug out, turning the engine over with the kick start. You will feel the resistance and hear the rubbing of the stops. You will need to re-adjust as they bed in.

Paul

[singleminded]

It sounds like you are describing the clutch stops. The hollow part of the stop should have an insert in it..They stop the outer clutch plate revolving when the clutch is pulled in.

[Steve_M90]

Following the responses below, I have decided to use the services of Mike Chenery to have the corks replaced.

I am now thinking about reassembly and adjustment. Spring tension should be straightforward – just set the nuts as before and lock in place adding the split pins.
Setting the cable for opening the clutch  - is this a matter of taking all the slack out with the plates closed and then setting the arm so that there is a little slack in the cable with the adjustment all the way out?

This way it is clear that the cable is not preventing the plates from being fully closed and more slack can be achieved when the cork wears.

In the clutch and chain housing there are two large studs with lock nuts. The inside is flush with the casing but the studs are drilled with a blind hole. What are these studs for?

Steve

[phutton]

Don't forget, Steve, that on some models not all the plates carry the same cork thickness. You should be able to check this in the spares list.

One plate carries 23/64"" corks while two carry 7/32", as does the clutch basket/sprocket.

P.

[VicYouel]

Why not use Mike Chenery, Petworth,
01428-707538
 
He and his predecessor have been recorking plates for many years at (I think) a price of 10 or 12 quid but i may be out of date.  Cork works very well in my experience.

I have seen bikes using  clutch plates with modern frcition material but with the clutch drive sprocket retaining cork..... gues it is difficult to bond.

[shorrog]

Hi Steve
There are a couple of other possibilities, rather than use cork you can get a sheet rubber cork material of the correct thickness and then use a punch in a drill press to cut them out. I did this on my model 9 and it worked out fine. The supplier was Beldham Crossley and the product is ACE Jointing.
The second approach which is probably better is to get Ferodo type material bonded to the clutch plates just as is done for brake shoes, you will get a  larger surface area. I know that Chris Odling has experience of getting this done so you could give him a ring.
Graham

[Steve_M90]

I have a Model 90 (1932) and I think the clutch is slipping despite maximising the adjustment. Therefore I think I need to replace the cork disks.

I have only one post referring to replacing the cork disks and it suggests using 1/4" reconstituted cork board. The disks in the clutch are solid cork and I wonder whether the cork board would disintegrate during use. I have leather punch (12mm) that would make the disks from the board but i think a different method would be needed for solid cork. I can only find one supplier of solid cork and they sell it in blocks from which I'd have to cut sheets and then the disks.

I'd be interested to hear from members on wether the cork is worn and how to make replacement disks. I will to try post a photo in a separate post.

Thanks. Steve