[iansoady]

I think the whole end plate (and maybe the mag itself?) is a later type. Mine (1931) has a nice brass cover which has a very flat profile and in fact holds the ring cam in place (intentional or not I don't know!)

[VicYouel]

Beautiful quality; I notice that the magneto points cover is a later bakelite type that allows fitment of a remote cut out button. It should really be  fitted with an aluminium cover similar to a chaincase type. A company called "Inaspin"  run by John or Paul Goodall in Burton on Trent used to make these.

[iansoady]

I did notice a thin black wire running to the horn button in one of the pics so that's probably for an earth. But as I say, that horn is entirely wrong and spoils what is a nice looking bike.

[singleminded]

A thought on the non operation of the horn..With good stoving on the handlebars the horn horn button may be effectively insulated from the rest of the bike ( the power goes to the horn and the button earths the other side making it work) you may have to remove some paint or run a separate earth to the button.
I used to have my footrests in the position yours are on my 9A ( basically a 600 version of your bike) but I found that on tight corners and roundabouts they grounded, watch out for this..john

[iansoady]

I always use Vehicle Wiring Products. Their thinwall cable is excellent - I've rewired my Model 10 in black, sheathed in a nylon woven sleeve which is unoriginal but doesn't look out of place.

www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/homepage/home.html

VWP also supply control cable components which I also use as well as all sorts of connectors, terminals, heatshrink etc etc.

They have quite a high delivery charge (although not as eye-watering as some) so it's as well to make a comprehensive list before ordering. I always find I need more cable than I think......

Are you going to keep the 3-brush dynamo setup with associated half-charge resistor in the headlamp switch? I've done this although have yet to use it in anger.......

ps that horn is of course anachronistic, and one of my pet hates is those pre-insulated crimp on connectors.

[Andy Cubin]

Part 3 is up on youtube for those interested  - thanks again for the inputs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEMKpe2aACc

The tank is now off and it is evident that some re-wiring is necessary - Part 4 in production!

Recommend decent wire and supplier?

Cheers

Andy

[Andy Cubin]

Thanks for the input Phutton,

If the rain holds off tomorrow, I'll do some more filming and edit Part 3.

Cheers again

Andy

[phutton]

I loved the professionalism of the video and presentation - well done! It will be a very valuable addition to the data available for new Beamers.

A couple of comments:

Strictly speaking, the cover labelled as the secondary chaincase is known as the Magneto Chain Cover. The timing cover is inboard of this.
Clutch adjust cover is much better than the Spares List description: Dome over Clutch Spring!
The valve lift lever should be the reverse lever on the LH bar end. Using it as the clutch will not give sufficient lift on the clutch plates. The clutch lever is a conventional type on the LH bar end.

[iansoady]

WRT handlebar photo: dimmer is more usually known as dipswitch (in the UK at least). You will know that it's been fitted backwards ie the lever should point towards the grip.

I believe the usual layout is to use the inverted lever on the LHS for the valve lifter and have a conventional clamped lever for the clutch.

[VicYouel]

Excellent quality video; not sure you should strip the engine down though. Worth checking that oil is circulating and that the oil indicator pokes out 1/4 inch also does it smoke when warm or have any nasty noises?  Then get 100 miles on the clock before trying to repair something that "ain't broke." Nice to see the engine runs so safe to assume the carburetter and petrol feed is ok and nothing leaking.

Before you set off though check all the controls and lubricate the cables. Pay particular attention to the chain adjustment and brakes. Condition of tyres and do they hold air for a few weeks? Is the clutch ok? Do the fork spindles have any play? Safety should be the emphasis.

Looks to me as though the machine has been nicely restored and hopefully the person who did the work used new inner tubes and replaced all bearings and bushes.

I would quite enjoy popping down to Wiltshire to give it a look over.  Otherwise look forward to seeing it on the Les Newman run

Cheerio for now

Vic

[Andy Cubin]

Thank you Gents,

If there are any inaccuracies within the videos, it is a simple edit to correct so please feel free to comment and critique - these are for the benefit of all.

Final table check of the handlebars please:

[Davetom]

Hi all,
If Andy has more experienced friends then I'm sure all will be fine, they are simply constructed and with guidance all will be well.
Good luck with the strip down, you're a natural in front of the camera anyway, and it's not the usual shaky YouTube type film, very professional !
Best wishes

[iansoady]

That did cross my mind Dave, but these are very simple machines. If Andy has sensible friends and doesn't start hammering at things that won't come off he should be OK.

Bikes of this age will have been through innumerable ham-handed owners - one of the main problems may be working out what has been creatively modified....

On a slightly different tack, I think the idea of a video series from a newcomer is a good one as long as everything is checked for accuracy - preferably before posting the videos on youtube. We've all come across the instruction manuals for various devices that have clearly been written by someone who already knows how the thing works, and doesn't answer what to them is an obvious question. Or as Robert Pirsig had it, they find the person on the shop floor who doesn't seem busy and get them to do it.

It's fascinating that the only literature available when our bikes were new was a 30-page or so booklet and a very blurry parts list. Compare that with the extensive manuals available for modern machines (better not to mention Haynes!).

[Andy Cubin]

Thanks Dave,

I agree that the strip down is somewhat daunting but, I have the generous help of a couple of very experienced friends who are kindly handing down their knowledge.  Since I am very grey about the bike's history and ferociously eager to learn her inside out, I'll be taking small steps.  The gearbox oil was pretty old but no foreign material in there.  I do want to take the head off and check the piston, rings and cylinder.  Ultimately, I need to have the confidence that she will go a bit further than just down the street and back.

Thanks again for your corrections on the shot.

Andy

[Davetom]

Hi Andy,
Your blank space is the rocker box, but you've labelled the crankcase as the gearbox. Please don't take this the wrong way but have you pulled many engines apart before, as this beautiful bike may not be the one you wish to learn on ?
Whilst old bikes aren't 'rocket science', there are certain aspects/ techniques that are often only learnt the hard way, and just like when I try to follow Delia's recipes, there are things that are obvious to the more experienced, but the cooking novice like me seem to be unaware of...
I suppose what I'm saying in a nutshell is that to make an assessment of your engines rebuild,you should at least be as or more capable than the guy who bolted it together?
All in my humble opinion of course, good luck , it looks a cracking bike

Edit to add- Secondary chaincase is better known as the Timing Cover

[Andy Cubin]

Evening all,

Label checking again - and I have a blank space - is this the rocker box?

Thanks all

Andy

[iansoady]

I look forward to the tale unfolding.

I hope to have my Model 10 up & running soon - am having a new mag sprocket made for it. If you need any complex machining done I know a chap who can....

One of the problems with these older bikes is, as I think you're maybe discovering, that they need a lot more work than the vendors would have you believe. Personally I would never sell a bike that I wouldn't jump on tomorrow for a 200-mile trip but others' standards seem less rigorous.

[Andy Cubin]

Not a deliberate mistake Ian - I genuinely did not know - I suppose the valve nearest the exhaust ports would logically be the exhaust valve.  I stand corrected and thank you.

Andy

[iansoady]

Probably the deliberate mistake to catch us all out but you have transposed exhaust and inlet valves.....

Clutch adjust cover is a bit odd but logically correct.

[Andy Cubin]

Morning all - would someone be kid enough to check my labelling and let me know if these items are called anything different?:

[Andy Cubin]

i'm filming as I go along Ian - there's one more to edit then I start breaking her down. Thanks for the support!

Happy New Year

Andy

[iansoady]

Very nicely produced Andy. Are there only 2 episodes - I can't see any further ones?

[Andy Cubin]

Happy New Year all you fine Beaming people!

My Model 8 lacks sufficient history for me to warrant stripping the whole thing down, checking and rebuilding.

It has occurred to me that videoing the project might be if use and also benefit other members who might be in a similar position.  In any case, there are some very knowledgeable folks here so, I would be grateful for any input, comment, critique etc etc.

Follow the story from here onwards:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oal7mImPANE

happy 2016 everyone,

Andy