[kbryt]

This has been discussed all over the net many times, powder coating will not fill pits it gives rise to many problems, for a start it blocks an earth point, it insulates, its thick so will crack under nuts etc; you will need to ream out holes in things like engine plates, at this or otehr sharp edge the plastic coating is likely to lift, it cannot be touched up. On occasion it will not make a decent bond with the metal and peel off, if you don't see it its a rust trap.
I had a bike powder coated some years ago and have regretted it ever since. Plastic coating has no place on a Sunbeam, its for shopping trollies and the like.

If you have rust pits, old fashoned rubbing down and filling and rubbing down again is the only way. Even modern self levelling primers leave too thick an undercoat.

If you have patience and read Radcos book you'd probably get a better finish with a brush and brushing enamel.

[singleminded]

One of the problems with powder coating that is often overlooked is that you CANNOT use filler( unless it is 400deg C heatproof) to make the surface smooth before coating.
You can have the parts coated and then sand back( have patience and swear a lot), the powder coat is tough. If the coating cracks and lets moisture in then the metal will rot and you will not notice it till the coating collapses..Having said that the frame on my bike is powder coated and the rest of the bike is painted..John

[VicYouel]

This was recently discussed in the "Beamers geberal discussion forum" so why not have a look first.
Vic

[Mike hall]

I  am restoring a 1939 High Cam and want to do it properly. I have always had my parts sandblasted and I spray them in 2 Pack. I have never had anything powder coated, which does not seem to cover rust blemishes.
How about powder coating the frame forks and ancilliaries and 2 packing the tinware? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Also what sort of plating would have been used on the general nuts and bolts? (cadmium zinc or what.
Mike Hall.