[Thomas]

That sounds interesting! I'll send you a PM.

[klaudius]

Hello
I still have NOS valve springs from Terry for 37 M9 springs are uncleaned and a bit sticky from the protective wax. I still have the original packaging somewhere, because it doesn't fit the 9A 32. Maybe you're still looking for something like that. Greetings Claudius.

[Thomas]

Of course, Paul, I already told my workshop enineer to pull them out and measure them. Actually I wanted to order the guides from the club shop (https://marston-sunbeam.org/sunbeam_shop17/new-stock/463-valve-guides-model-990-.html). Does your remark mean that these guides are not correct? What about the valves?
Cheers, Thomas

[phutton]

Hi Thomas,

Could you please let us have the dimensions of your valve guides? The guide used from 1932 to 1936 is a different number from the ones for 1937 and 38, but we really need to know what the differences are. All information gratefully received, as we have several boxes of valve guides, but we don't know what they all are.

Thanks

Paul H

[singleminded]

Some people are using the lighter 350 valve springs as it puts less strain on the cams and followers.I use only the outwer springs on my 9A and the hairsprings on the 90 are also not as strong as the originals.  John

[Thomas]

Yes, that's the correct one. I already ordered all bearings at the mentioned suppliers. Imagine, three bearings from three different countries. Bearing Revolution is expensive if they deliver to the continent. But thank you for the adresses. My flywheel is now in inspection and as soon as the bearings arrived I can reassemble the engine again (including some other jobs).

I am looking for new valve springs. In the club shop the inner springs are not correct and I wonder if I can get a good replacement. I also look for new valve guides. They are out of stock in the shop. Any hint is welcome.

Cheers, Thomas

[phutton]

Have a look at this one: https://www.bearingrevolution.co.uk/3~lrj-1-38656. This looks to be the correct dimensions.

[singleminded]

https://www.bearingrevolution.co.uk/rmc-22-l-41110
Have a look at this..John

[Thomas]

Hi Paul,

I found another source for the RMC22L but more expensive: https://www.vintage-motorcycle.com/en/search?fulltext=RMC22L

Here is my collection:

•   RMC22L roller bearing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RMC22L-22x50x17mm-Bearing-Vintage-Sunbeam-Rudge-Norton-W6000-MCRA22/254202655660?hash=item3b2fa8b3ac:g:WG0AAOSwLSxe1ijG
50 x 22 x 17mm

and

https://www.vintage-motorcycle.com/en/search?fulltext=RMC22L (watch the price difference)

•   CRL8 roller bearing
https://www.vintage-motorcycle.com/en/parts/bearingssteel-balls/roller-bearing-full-floating-no-lip
2.25" OD (57,15mm) Shaft 1" width 0.625" (15,875mm) (or NKE LRJ1?)

•   RLS8 bakk bearing
https://www.skf.com/group/products/rolling-bearings/ball-bearings/deep-groove-ball-bearings/productid-RLS%208

Are you sure about the LRJ-1? I can't find one with the right dimensions.

Cheers, Thomas

[phutton]

Hi Thomas,
An equivalent to the CRL-8 roller bearing is the LRJ-1. This and the RLS-8 ball bearing are both readily obtainable through bearing stockists. I'm sure that there is one local to you, or through the internet.

Please ignore the W6000 - I don't know where that one came from, but you can use the MCR22L on the timing side The only source for these that I know of is Vintage Bearing Co.: https://www.vintagebearings.co.uk/ball-and-roller-bearings .

P.

[Thomas]

Hi Paul, can you point out a source? Best, Thomas

[phutton]

In Bob's Book, the 131 ball bearing is listed as the RLS-8. The drive-side roller bearing is CRL-8, and the timing side roller bearing W6000, all SKF. The part numbers are taken from the 1937 Spares List, and the equivalents are what is listed in Bob's Book.

[Thomas]

Isn't the '1939 model' the AJS-built High camshaft engine?

Well, I really don't know, Rick!

Yes, the RL8 is 1 inch diameter and easily available. I guess, I need to wait until I've split the engine and see what it is. Everything is stripped and  I soon can lift the crankcase out of the frame.

Cheers, Thomas

[Rick Parkington]

Hi Thomas,
Isn't the '1939 model' the AJS-built High camshaft engine? That engine is probably very different to your bike.
However, I've just measured the drive shaft (left side crank) of a 1935-type Sunbeam and it is one inch diameter - earlier models are 22mm. The RLS8 bearing is one inch bore, so maybe it is correct for pre 1939 also.
Cheers Rick

[Thomas]

I am looking for new crank shaft bearings. The 1937 part number is 131 whereas the 1939 part number is RLS-8. The latter is a standard bearing and I presume that it will fit. But can I be sure about that? What is 131 at all?
Cheers, Thomas

[Thomas]

Is there anything special I need to consider when splitting my crankcase to get to the main bearing? For instance, bolts, gaskets, loose parts which might fall out?

Thomas

[Thomas]

Oh, that's an important information, Paul. As far as I could find out the company is long gone. It means that it could basically be the original piston  I mean, no oversize and no liner fitted in the barrel. Very interesting! And the barrel is only glazed. That can esily be managed with a honing tool.

Thomas

[phutton]

Hi Thomas,
I'm pretty sure that the 25 and 27 refer to the Model numbers of the Light Solo and the Model 9 for 1937. I'm very sorry, but I don't know what the rest means, other than that the STD is standard size.

P.

[Thomas]

My piston is out and now clean. It looks as if it would be the original size. Is that a reasonable assumption considering the amount of carbon on it? Some parts were covered by almost a millimeter. The stamps on the dome say ,,STD" (Standard?), MOD 25 27 (Model?), F/A (?) and a surrounded ,,2".  It is a ,,SPECIALLOID" piston, marked with a surrounded ,,2" and ,,B/6", ,,B/6" and ,,B/8". Does somebody know what that means?

[Thomas]

Sometimes one needs to be brave. I successfully opened the cam box and kept everything in place, pulled out the rocker arms, lowered the push rods and then could dismantle the rocker box. And I found the marks on gears of the the camshaft and the crank. One mark on one side and two on the other. Everything as it should be.

[Thomas]

Hm... taking out the whole motor for basic work at the rocker box and the head? Would be surprising I suppose. I will open the timing cover and hope that I can lower the push rods to get the head off. The whole business is surprisingly complicated considering the overall quality of the machine.

[singleminded]

on my earlier engine once the bolts that hold the rocker box onto the head are removed then the rocker box lifts off..It may be that on your bike the engine will have to come out of the frame first..As you say, detective work..

[Thomas]

Yes, this is basically detective work. I would need an engineer who built these machine... 

I disconnected the valve cover but do not get it off. The push rods are in the way. Does it mean I have to dismantle the cam shaft first to lower them?

[Rick Parkington]

Well done Thomas!
Just a general point that may help someone sometime, whenever you have trouble removing a casing, bear in mind the screws are nearly always evenly spaced. If there seems to be a gap, like a missing number from a clock face, check very carefully it's not hidden.
I made this mistake with a BSA Bantam once, hammering hell out of the crank to separate the cases - it had been full of water at some point so I expected trouble and I knew I had removed all the screws because I'd just done another Bantam engine.
What I didn't realise was that this earlier engine had one extra screw that comes in from the back....
Cheers Rick

[Thomas]

Hi John,

finally, I've gotten the sprocket off. That's really tricky. The heat gun didn't help, neither slight blows onto the axis (nut on). I drilled more holes into my puller plate for smaller screws and fiddled around. After a number of tries it finally jumped off. Inside the chain case there are two additional screws, indeed, which match the others. Next step will be the primary case and then the cylinder head.

Cheers, Thomas

[singleminded]

Hi Thomas..I suspect the lower sprocket is on a taper the same as the magneto sprocket, same as the earlier engines.On my 1932 engine i leave the nut on the inlet cam and prise the sprocket away from the case just to tension it and tap the end of the nut with a hammer, the sprocket should then just pop off.
Looking at your picture it looks like there is a screw just above the chain which I guess is stopping the timing chest from coming off, there may even be another behind the rest of the chain. hope this helps a little....John

[Thomas]

I am on my way to open the engine for checking my main bearing and will probably need some advice. I have the text ,,Overhauling a 1927 Sunbeam Model 90" from the club shop written by ,,Torrens". But some steps are not described for my 10 year later model, of course.

Here are my first two questions:

The lower ignition timing sprocket doesn't go off. Do I miss something?

The cam shaft cover doesn't move. I detached the mimik for the valve lifter but I now see that this isn't necessary at all. Do I miss some screws or bolts?

Thanks, Thomas